THE IDEAL SUIT FIT
We know how important the right color, fabric and details are when selecting your suit, but you should never neglect the most important aspect – the fit. You really do not want to look like you have borrowed your dad’s suit or like your jacket will explode in pieces, if you happen to sneeze. Here is our guide to nailing the ideal fit.
The Jacket Length
When you stand up straight with your arms relaxed at your sides, the end of your jacket should reach your thumb knuckles. Longer jackets are considered a bit more formal, but in any case the jacket should not go below the end of your thumb. Shorter jackets have become more popular lately, but always bear in mind that your rear end should not be in plain view.
The Sleeve Length
Ideally, when your arms are relaxed, a quarter to half an inch of your shirt cuff should be visible. That means the jacket sleeve should end near the large wrist bone.
The jacket collar should not stand away from your nape, but should sit around your shirt collar, which lies firmly against your neck. No gaps should be visible neither at the front, nor at the back. There should not be any bulges or folds of fabric at the back of your neck either.
The jacket shoulder should lie flat against your own shoulder. The sleeve seam should start where the shoulder bone ends.
- Shoulder Divot: There should be no indentation below the sleeve seam, as this usually indicates the total shoulder width is too large.
- Shoulder Wrinkles: The jacket shoulder should be smooth on top, as any wrinkling usually means the half-shoulder size is too big or the that slope of the shoulder of the jacket is not appropriate.
The Jacket Waist
You should be able to button the jacket without any effort. If when buttoned the jacket constrains your chest and creates a very prominent X-shaped wrinkling, the waist is probably too tight.
The Sleeve Angle (Pitch)
If when standing up straight there are twisted wrinkles on your sleeves, their construction does not follow your natural arm position. The sleeve should fall smoothly, following the arm’s angle.
The Trouser Break
The trousers should end on top of the shoe, barely touching it, while forming a small crease, known as the “break”. Recently the no-break look has been gaining popularity and it is considered very trendy and especially suitable for slimmer figures.