Sports Coat vs Blazer: What’s The Difference & Which Do I Need?

When is a suit not a suit? When it’s a stand-alone jacket! If you’re newer to the world of men’s high fashion, then you may not realize that the stylish jackets you see worn in a variety of daytime and business casual looks aren’t, in fact, just a suit jacket without its pants. They’re either a sport coat or a blazer - and yes, there is a difference! Every fashionable man should know the difference between sport coats and blazers, why they matter, and what’s the best occasion to wear each.

Don’t worry, though. We, at Oliver Wicks, will tell you all about these three categories - sport coat vs blazer vs suit jacket. We’ll explain how they differ from each other, and why each is a critical addition to any man’s wardrobe. We will also walk you through what they are, how to style them, and how to make the best of any look with these three key wardrobe staples at your disposal. 

The Sport Coat

Let’s dive in with the first of the ‘big three’. What is a sports coat, anyway?

What Is a Sports Coat? 

In the era of Austen and Downton Abbey, a sports coat, often known as a sports jacket also, is what fashionable men would wear in the less formal countryside, when they still wanted to look fabulous but skip the formality of a business meeting, visit, or party. In particular, the iconic red coat from the fox hunting set was a sport coat. This heavy, but practical, style was then worked over by Italian tailors to create something lighter and more versatile men could wear almost anywhere and still look stylish, yet less formal. 

Modern interpretations capture this same ease of wear, looser cut, and fun, slightly informal styling to create a jacket that’s comfortable in settings where you need to look styled and poised, but also free of formality and able to move easily. The shoulders aren’t padded and shaped, there are no canvas layers to give the jacket extra structure, and your sport coat may not even be lined. 

Types of Sports Coats

A sports coat is, pretty much, a sports coat, so don’t sweat it too much. Any unstructured men's jacket that allows for easy movement but still has a little style can be classed as a sports coat. There is a point at which it begins to bleed over into a blazer (more on this later), but if it's standalone, informally cut, and looks slightly relaxed, it’s probably a sport coat.

There are, however, a ton of fun additions you can make to the basic design to let your personality shine through in a way you’d never see on more formal types of jackets. Think elbow patches, ticket pockets, pleats, and slits. There’s a bit of balance to be achieved between looking like a university lecturer and looking suave, but it’s a bit of fashionable playfulness men don’t often see. 

That said, a sport coat is typically single-breasted, and comes in 2-button and 3-button varieties. 2-button cuts keep it very casual and sometimes have visible stitching to add to the vibe. 3-buttons varieties should only be fastened on the middle button, as this is a casual coat, and make a good choice to elongate the torso and make you look a little slimmer. Despite this casual nature, however, you’re not excused from a good fit! Remember to check in on your suit fit before you buy!

Watch out for divots on the shoulders and gaping around the neck, fit for a clean line without fabric puckering or ripples, and make sure it’s comfortable without being baggy or too tight, especially around the armholes. It’s meant to be unstructured, not ill-fitting.

Fabrics Used In Men’s Sport Coats

In keeping with its country roots, the sports jacket traditionally uses sturdier fabrics and a looser fit to leave you ready to jump on your horse, take bracing walks in the cool night air, or defend a maiden’s honor. Think houndstooth, tweed, and flannel, camel hair, sharkskin, and bird’s eye. 

While these fabrics can sound stuffy and dated off the bat, don’t let stereotypes fool you. Modern sports jackets keep homage to these men’s classics while cutting a dapper and stylish silhouette that goes easily from work to play. The looser fit means it sits perfectly over woolens, which is why it’s a potentially good fit (pun intended) for the business casual look, too.

Common Colors in Sports Jackets For Men

Sports coats are very often patterned, be it an obvious choice or a subtle effect from the fabric. Pick and pick, a type of subtle herringbone is a great choice for a sports coat as it adds interest without becoming overwhelming. You have your choice of patterns, however, from houndstooth to windowpane. You can find sport coats in nearly any color you want, but we’d advise you to start with some smart neutrals at first, with maybe a warm jewel color for some fun in winter. 

How to Style Sports Coats

Sports coats are very easy for men, with a looser fit and ease of wear that keep you comfortable. Bear this in mind when selecting the types of jacket for a function. Sports coats can slide easily into business casual, or make for a comfortable yet stylish afternoon event, but won’t cut it for very formal events. Think of your sports coat as a way to stay sophisticated at casual events. 

With that in mind, they look great over jeans, or otherwise pick a contrasting pair of pants. No patterns or bold colors for your trousers, however, or you risk looking garish. Typically, you will pair your shoes to the formality in your choice of pants, but keep them semi-casual, like loafers or smart lace-ups, if you have any doubts. 

The Blazer

Now you know what a sports jacket is, and how to wear it, let’s look at the blazer vs sport coat. What is the difference between a blazer and a sports coat? Do you need both in your wardrobe? The answer is a definite yes, so let’s see why.

What Is a Blazer?

A blazer is a classy, dressy alternative that’s still worn as a single jacket. If a suit is too formal, but the sport coat is a little too louche, this is your go-to look. It was first popularized by British royalty in the 1800s, and has a naval connotation too, hence its traditional navy or red colors. The blazer is your ultimate work-and-play jacket, and every man’s wardrobe needs a few. If you can’t decide how to start building your wardrobe after getting a useful suit, we’d suggest picking up one or two blazers as the solid start to a stylish future. 

Types of Blazers 

Blazers mostly differ by the number of buttons- 2, 3, and 6 button jackets are all common. While the 2-button blazer is perfect for more relaxed situations, the 6-button adds some extra style if you’re invited to a formal event. 

While most blazers are single-breasted, there are some double-breasted cuts available for 6-button blazers if you want something exceptional. Expect notched lapels and an overall feeling of exclusive luxury if you go for the full complement.

3-button blazers are a personal style choice as they also favor taller men, especially if you’re long in the body. They can also create a neat optical illusion for a longer, slimmer figure.

Fabrics 

To remain as versatile as possible, blazers are usually made from hard-wearing cotton or worsted wool. Hopsack, serge, flannel, linen, and even cashmere can be used too, so you can easily find a range of looks and luxuries. Remember that a subtle shine (not a polyester gleam) usually imparts the idea of class to an outfit, so use that to your advantage. A soft sheen for more formal and elegant events, and a looser weave and lighter fabric for daywear. 

What distinguishes a suit jacketрр a blazer, and a sport coat, however, is the structure. This means more formal shaping in the shoulders and through the fabric panels via canvas inner layers. It’s these layers that make a good suit look snappy and handsome, and bring that notable aura of prestige and power we see in well-dressed bankers and billionaires. Yet this same structure makes a suit jacket near impossible to wear as a solo stand-alone jacket. You immediately look too overdressed at the top, and your non-suit pants look lost and lonely. Even if the viewer can’t quite say why you look mismatched, they will know you don’t look quite right. 

This is exactly why the blazer was designed in the first place, and why you will find a lot of variety in the exact style of a blazer. Some are meant to be bare steps above the sports coat in informality, while others have enough structure to almost be a suit jacket. It also means there’s some overlap in terminology, so don’t be too worried if you’re not a pro at spotting them to start with.

Colors To Consider For a Blazer

Remember that blazers are, basically, the middle ground between sport coats and suit jackets. This means that making them as versatile as possible is in your best interests, especially when starting your blazer collection. You can never go wrong with a crisp, classic, navy. It will pair well with semi-formal pants for events like daytime weddings. It also transitions just as easily into a casual look over jeans. 

Your first few blazers will serve you best in solid colors, but there’s plenty of room for some whimsy if you like patterns. Instead of the ‘country’ inspired patterns on the sports coat, think tropical, paisley, plaid, and printed patterns. Or add some luxury with embroidery details or an ombre dye job. Alongside your classic navy and other neutrals, reds and bottle-greens look fantastic on blazers and are surprisingly versatile in a man’s wardrobe. Look for classy metallic buttons or mother of pearl. If you’re enjoying your adventures into the men’s fashion world, it’s worth knowing that many designers use the buttons on a blazer to showcase their name and allow you to flaunt who you are wearing. 

Traditionally, blazers are very loud and colorful, and vertical stripes (called regatta stripes) are found across a variety of ‘gentlemen’s sports’ where blazers are worn. You may want to avoid a vertical stripe on a loud base color for that reason if you don’t feel entirely confident in the colors. 

However, the modern legacy of this bright and bold history is that the blazer is an invitation to get exciting and daring with your fashion. You’re not investing in a full suit, so you have more room to experiment, and you can venture past navy and solid neutrals once you have the confidence to. Be ready for compliments!

Styling Blazer Jackets

Blazers are a man’s answer to women’s dress-up, dress-down (or ‘day to night’) fashion. They can go over anything from jeans to stylish pants. This makes an excellent go-to for a man who’s not quite sure of the dress code for an event. Blazers are a must for any man with a ‘business casual’ office. 

The fit does matter but blazers are a little bit more relaxed than formal suits. They typically have structured shoulders, so make sure these fit well, and consider a little tailoring through the rest of the jacket, too. 

As to styling your blazer? The sky is your limit. A man in a navy blazer and well-fitted soft grey pants can go anywhere with ease, but it’s truly up to you how you wear your blazer. Remember to match your shoes to your pants. You don’t want formal shoes with jeans, nor loafers with business pants. If you need a middle ground to get used to wearing a blazer, go for monk straps or bluchers, which will transition nearly anywhere without looking out of place.

The Suit Jacket

Now it’s time to look at the suit jacket and how it differs from a blazer and a sport coat. What is the difference between a suit coat and a jacket? Can you wear your suit jacket as a blazer? Let’s dive in.

What Is a Suit Jacket?

A suit jacket is the top part of the two-piece mens’ suit. It’s always part of a matching pair. That’s why we don’t recommend wearing your suit jacket separately from the pants. Even with the most careful dry cleaning possible, it will result in color fading that will spoil the entire suit. 

That’s not the primary reason why you shouldn’t use a suit jacket as a blazer, though. Suit jackets are far more structured than blazers, and we’ve spoken about how that hyper-formality can affect the aura you give off wearing it. There is a little wriggle room with some more modern casual suits, which are deliberately intended to not bring the formality of a traditional suit to the table, but it’s generally a far better idea to buy a stand-alone blazer than try to make a suit jacket work. 

Types of Suit Jackets

As they’re part of a pair, the types of suit jackets you’ll encounter are determined by the types of suit you see. While the classic single-breasted button-up is the style most familiar to us all, there’s plenty of room to experiment and express your individuality. We’ve even seen the double-breasted suit make a comeback lately. They’re typically styled with notch peaks and lapels, and flap pockets on business suits, but there’s some room for personal taste here and as suits venture to more formal heights (like tuxedos), the specifics will change. 

What Fabrics Are Used In a Suit Jacket?

A suit jacket is usually made from superior fabrics to sport coats and blazers. Not because the others are inferior items in any way, but rather because the suit jacket, as part of a full suit, is designed for a different kind of wear. High-quality worsted wool is the most common suit jacket fabric, but you get luxury versions like mohair and even silk. Twill, gabardine, and corduroy are more unusual options. 

As the suit has become a fashion icon for men, rather than something you have to wear to a relative’s wedding, we’ve seen more adventurous fabrics enter the arena. There’s been a big diversity in hot weather options recently, with linen and cotton becoming quite popular. Some fashion-forward men are embracing odd choices like velveteen to make a stand-out impression. 

What Colors Define Suit Jackets?

While modern fashion has made nearly anything acceptable in a suit, classically they had subtle prints or solid colors. This means you will see less tweed, and more chalk stripe, pinstripe, baby corn, and windowpane. Herringbone, however, can bring some interest without looking out of place, although we wouldn’t advise it until you have a solid collection with the above-mentioned must-have colors. 

If you’re stepping out of the boardroom and into the fun, then you have a license to go as bold and bright as you want. Remember that a bold and unusual suit color needs confidence to wear, though, so start with classic neutrals and only venture outside of the box when you feel confident. 

How Do I Style a Suit Jacket?

Suits should always be worn as the pair they were styled as. If you ever do want to ‘save’ part of a pair when the other half was damaged, you must match the fabric and color, although you’re probably better off simply replacing the whole suit. 

They should also always be tailored to suit your body. They have a slimline profile and should fit well, more so even than the sports jacket or blazer. They’re often called the ‘minimalist’ man’s jacket for this reason. Remember that nearly any part of a suit jacket can be tweaked easily by a tailor except the shoulders. Adjusting the fit at the shoulders effectively needs the jacket to be disassembled, which is often more work than it’s worth. So always fit for this key area first.

Suit jackets are meant to be worn with a shirt and tie underneath, and nothing else. Perhaps a vest if it’s that sort of suit. They’re not the right choice for layered looks. Stick to formal shoes like Oxfords and brogues, or you risk blowing the cohesion of your outfit. 

Why Should Types of Jackets Matter To Me?

Now that you know a little bit more about the blazer, the sports coat, and the suit jacket, there’s one more key question to answer - why does it matter?

We’ve looked a little bit into why each jacket style developed, and where it’s typically used. You’ve probably noticed that there’s a lot of overlap, especially in the sport coat vs blazer debate. Why would a man, no matter how well dressed, need all three of these in his wardrobe? You’ve probably worked out that a suit jacket can’t be worn by itself, but if you have either a sport coat or blazer, why would you need the other? Why do you need a solo (sometimes called an odd) jacket in the first place?

On the surface, the world of men’s fashion is a lot more restricted, even easier than women’s, simply because most of it revolves around a combination of shirt, jacket, and pants. Yet wearing the wrong item to the wrong event stands out as an immediate (and very gauche) faux pax just as much for men as for women. And, let’s be brutally honest here, gents - there’s nothing worse than a man rolling up in his scruffy tee and jeans to an event with a partner that’s perfectly dressed for the mood and occasion. You will make them feel like you don’t care about your image or them. You’re a letdown. No one wants to have the room feel sorry for their fashion choices! It’s less offensive to be overdressed than underdressed, of course, which is why many men are advised to wear a suit when in doubt.

Dressing well in a suit is a big milestone for men who are looking to move past comfort and build themselves a reputation for style and class. Finding yourself in the ranks of men who can comfortably slip on a well-tailored suit and own a room with confidence is a great way to know you’ve come into your own. Yet there’s a lot of situations in which a suit just isn't...well, suitable. And what then? Wearing a suit that’s a little too formal is a lot better than the alternative, but if you’re looking to come into your own as a stylish man and have true elegance wherever you are, you need something less dressy and more versatile so you always stand out for the right reasons. 

Sport coats and blazers open up a whole new world in the male wardrobe, giving you a wide staging post between scruffy and formal. You no longer need to either wear a suit or go casual. You can work a business casual office like a pro, and look smart and put-together no matter where you roam. If you want to establish yourself as a powerful presence and a confident, elegant gentleman who owns a room and turns heads wherever he goes, you need a wardrobe to match. 

When to Wear a Blazer vs a Sport Coat

So, you’re now pretty confident about when to wear a suit and when to stick to a single jacket. When do you wear a sport coat vs blazer, though?

Sports coats are the least formal jackets you can own and should always be worn at events and places where you want to look stylish but casual. A blazer isn't quite that informal, so it does better towards the formal side of the spectrum. It’s a better bet for the office or a date. However, the modern world has opened up the cuts, styles, and structure used in both blazers and sport coats a lot. It’s not unusual to find well-cut, slightly formal sport coats, or casual, less structured blazers. 

In short, there’s a lot of overlap, and you’ll be forgiven if you can’t quite tell the difference at the start. You’ll often find sport coats labeled as blazers and vice versa, even in shops selling them! So don’t feel bad if you’re a little confused. Remember that the ‘vibe’ of an outfit will also always be affected by the accessories you choose, as well as color, pattern, and even fabric. In this case, the choice of pants and shoes, which should always be matched to the formality of your pants, will also have a profound effect on the overall look. So there’s plenty of room to experiment. 

In general, a traditional blazer is a great choice for business environments, formal functions (like weddings), and night events. If a suit could still be worn without looking too out of place, a blazer is the best bet. Sport coats will take you through day-to-day life, casual events, and day events. Wear a blazer to a dinner date and a sport coat to a coffee date.

The general rule of thumb is to be a little overdressed than underdressed. Overdressing stands out the wrong way, but at least you look like you care and respect the host. Underdressing just makes you look rude. So if you’re in doubt, or don’t know the dress code, throwing on a classic navy blazer will carry you through nearly any event without looking out of place. You can also look at your date’s wardrobe choices and make sure your outfits match. In the end, the question of what to wear - a sport coat or a blazer can very much be determined by what you like, as you’re near-guaranteed to look good in either. 

Suit Jackets vs. Blazers vs. Sport Coats - A Summary

Men’s odd jackets open up a whole new world of fashion and style. A suit can take you nearly everywhere but there are no doors closed to a good sport coat or blazer, either. From a casual-smart, “I-woke-up-like-this” trip for coffee, to impressing bosses and coworkers, you now have one of the must-have accessories for a true power dresser. 

Sport coats can even be tossed on over a classy tee to elevate your day-to-day style, and you’re sure to turn heads no matter where you go. If you love to experiment with color and pattern, there’s no better canvas than a sports coat or blazer to indulge your sense of fun. 

In many ways, the blazer and sports coat are the ‘little black dress of a woman’s wardrobe. Dress them up, dress them down, it doesn’t matter - they work nearly everywhere and can be worn to nearly everything without looking out of place.

Just as the team at Oliver Wicks can help you with a custom made-to-measure suit, they also have the experience in a range of solo jackets to help you create the look of your dreams. So if you’re asking yourself if it’s a sport coat vs blazer, we say, “Why choose?”. It’s time to power up your wardrobe and make an impression no matter where you go.