How to Fold a Pocket Square

Often woefully neglected, the pocket square (aka ‘handkerchief’) is a small yet powerful element of fashion; its pop of color and versatile folds can complete your look and elevate your style in seconds. That is, if you know how to choose - and fold - your pocket square.

There is no definitive rule on whether you should wear this accessory or not, but since your jacket has a breast pocket, why not make the most of it and truly stand out? We believe that the pocket square is the little detail that distinguishes the suited man from the suited gentleman.

In this article, we’ll dig deep into the nitty-gritty of pocket square info; we’ll look at how to fold a pocket square, how to choose among different pocket square designs, how to know when to wear a pocket square, and more. But if you’d like to pick out some key points at a glance, please take a look at this table of contents for easy navigation:

6 Ways to Fold a Pocket Square

The Square Fold

The square fold, also known as the presidential fold or TV fold pocket square, is the ultimate classic fold and should be your choice for a black tie event. It works best with a white linen pocket square or a cotton pocket square, as silk fabric will slip easily and end up looking untidy. To ensure it stays put, you can iron the folds.

How To Create The Square Fold 

Step 1: Lay the pocket square completely flat.
Step 2: Fold the pocket square in half from left to right.
Step 3: Fold the bottom edge up to meet the top edge, creating a smaller square.
Step 4: Fold the square vertically one last time to adjust the width to fit your jacket's breast pocket.
Step 5: Place the folded square into your pocket with the clean, folded edges visible at the top.

 

Modest in size and flare, this simple pocket square fold is a wonderful option with a formal suit (see image below). It’s a failsafe option; just consider its other nickname, “the presidential pocket square.” With the clean, simple line of pocket square’s linen or cotton edge, you may not actually be able to command a country, but you will certainly look the part. Incidentally, the square fold is almost identical to a straight fold.

Click Here To Explore Our Pocket Square Collection

To make the square fold more casual, use a pocket square with a contrasting hem and turn the folded pocket square with the hem pointing up. You can ruffle its edges up a bit as well (below).

The Triangle Fold

This fold can really make a point, which could be one of the reasons they call it the one–point fold or single-point fold as well. It works superbly with cotton and linen, but it can be a pain getting silk pocket squares to sit correctly with the triangle fold.

How To Create The Triangle Fold:

Step 1: Lay the pocket square completely flat on a clean surface.
Step 2: Position the square in a diamond shape, so a corner is pointing up.
Step 3: Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner, creating a large triangle.
Step 4: Fold the left corner of the triangle in towards the vertical centerline.
Step 5: Fold the right corner in towards the center, overlapping the left side slightly.
Step 6: Carefully turn the entire folded shape over.
Step 7: Fold the left and right sides in to create a neat base that will fit your pocket width.
Step 8: Tuck the finished fold into your pocket, leaving the clean triangle point visible.

The triangle fold can be a great way to add some colour to your look; choose a pocket square that contrasts, but complements, the suit.

For a more casual look, simply mismatch the edges when folding. That way, you will end up with the so–called two–point fold (see image below).

The Stairs Fold

If you're after something more challenging than the classic square fold or triangle fold, then this fold is just the thing. It requires some patience and dexterity, but the result is really worth the effort. It's easiest to use cotton or linen when attempting it for the first time.

Once you get the hang of it, try it with a silk pocket square. If you’re a fan of the rose pocket square fold, then the stairs fold may be a fantastic new way to take your folding technique to the next level.

How To Create The Stairs Fold: 

Step 1: Lay your pocket square down on a flat surface.
Step 2: Position the square in a diamond shape with one corner pointing up.
Step 3: Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner, creating a large triangle.
Step 4: Take the tip of the top layer and fold it down towards the base to create the first "stair."
Step 5: Fold that same tip back up, stopping just below the top edge to create a second stair.
Step 6: Fold the entire shape in half from left to right, keeping the stairs on the outside.
Step 7: Carefully turn the folded triangle over.
Step 8: Fold the flat left side in towards the center.
Step 9: Fold the right side (with the stairs) in over the left side to complete the fold. Adjust the width to fit your pocket.

Once you manage to successfully tuck your creation into the breast pocket of your jacket, it should ideally look like this:

Again, don’t stress if your first attempts do not work out. This is one of the more difficult suit handkerchief folds to master!

The Puff Fold

The puff fold is arguably one of the most versatile and easy pocket square folds in this list. If you take away just one idea from this article, we recommend investing your time in learning the puff pocket square, as it is ideal for both casual and formal wear.

How To Create The Puff Fold: 

Step 1: Lay your pocket square down completely flat.
Step 2: Gently pinch the very center of the fabric and lift it straight up.
Step 3: Allow the four corners of the pocket square to hang down evenly, with the pinched center forming the top.
Step 4: Gather and fold the hanging sides inward to create a narrow base.
Step 5: Tuck the bottom edges up behind the fold to adjust the height, then place it in your pocket with the soft, rounded "puff" visible.

The puff fold is a perfect way to show off more of the pocket square’s design, so it works very well with printed patterns and designs (see image below).

For a more dramatic effect, tuck the top of the fold into the pocket and leave the edges out. This variation is difficult to get right without it looking odd, but once again - pocket square technique comes with practice, so don’t get discouraged (see image below).

The Winged Puff

The winged puff fold looks great with most fabric choices, and with the right styling combinations, it can be equally appropriate for both day and evening wear.

How to Create the Winged Puff Fold:

Step 1: Lay your pocket square down on a flat surface.
Step 2: Position the square in a diamond shape with a corner pointing up.
Step 3: Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner, forming a large triangle.
Step 4: Fold the top left corner down to meet the bottom point of the triangle.
Step 5: Fold the top right corner down to meet the bottom point, creating a diamond shape.
Step 6: Fold the left side of the diamond in towards the vertical centerline.
Step 7: Fold the right side of the diamond in towards the center, overlapping the left.
Step 8: Tuck the bottom point up and behind the fold to create a flat base, then place the finished fold into your pocket.

With a relatively simple learning process, the winged puff fold offers a great deal in return. Pair with a solid color pocket square, or choose a fabric with a subtle print; your ensemble will look dashing.

Practice makes perfect!

Be patient and your pocket square folds will soon reach master level!

Now that we’ve shown some great ways on how to fold a handkerchief for a suit pocket, let’s outline some key handkerchief styles that are available to us all.

Pocket Square Styles

Solid Color

Perfect for a classy yet conservative look, solid color pocket squares can be an excellent choice for business outfits, formal event wear, and even minimalist, casual styles. Sometimes, less is more. See image below.

WHITE POCKET SQUARE, 100% SILK

Small Repeating Print

When it comes to patterns in menswear, small repeating designs offer a large degree of versatility. One key consideration to bear in mind is that the pattern should not be too similar to that of the suit, shirt or tie. This style of pocket square works well with any fold type (see image below).

BRONZE & NAVY ITALIAN 100% SILK POCKET SQUARE

Large Repeating Print

Pocket squares that feature a bold repeating pattern are typically best suited for casual suit wear. However, you can make use of such a design to spice up formal attire or a business suit, if you really want your outfit to pack a punch. Such a design can be shown off particularly well with a fold such as the puff fold, or any of the more complicated folds like the stair fold or winged puff. See an example of a large, bold repeating pattern below.

NAVY 100% SILK POCKET SQUARE WITH RED SHAPES

Non–Repeating Pattern

This category covers a wide range of possibilities, but is essentially a patterned pocket square that does not have a uniform pattern. By nature, these patterns often work best for casual attire. The image below displays an abstract circles pattern, but this category could include anything from nature scenes to country flags.

BLACK & GOLD PATTERNED ITALIAN 100% SILK POCKET SQUARE

Paisley Pattern

Perhaps you may have this pattern on some of the ties in your collection; in fact, you may even have seen matching sets of paisley ties and pocket squares. Paisley designs are well respected in formal menswear and the teardrop-like design has been around for centuries. The design is particularly complex, and so often works best with simple, solid colored suits for contrast. See the example of a beautiful paisley design below.

GREEN & BLUE PAISLEY PATTERNED 100% SILK POCKET SQUARE

Floral Pattern

It will likely come as no surprise that patterns containing flowers are a popular choice when it comes to pocket squares. Designs can vary hugely from abstract to realistic. The image below displays a simple, yet elegant, floral pocket square design.

NAVY & WHITE FLORAL VINTAGE ITALIAN 100% SILK POCKET SQUARE

How to Wear a Pocket Square

The style of a pocket square may fall into multiple categories. For example, you could have a Small Repeating, Floral Pattern.

Generally the smaller the pattern, the more formal and versatile the design of the pocket becomes. If in doubt, a Solid Color design is always a safe choice.

When Can You Wear a Pocket Square?

The short answer – any time that you’re wearing a suit, blazer, tuxedo or sports coat! All you need is a jacket and a breast pocket.

Weddings and Formal Events

For events where a formal dress code applies, it’s our opinion that wearing a pocket square is a must.

Not sure how to fold a pocket square for a wedding? We recommend you keep it simple and conservative – why not try a solid color or small repeating pattern pocket square with a minimalistic square fold?

We recommend the same approach if you’re looking to learn how to fold a handkerchief for a tux. The image below depicting a square fold would be a safe and stylish look for your friend’s wedding.

Click Here To Explore Our Pocket Square Collection

Business and Professional

The professional gentleman must plan not only his business tactics but also his strategy for a refined and appropriate look. We strongly recommend pocket squares be a part of your professional or business attire - especially for important meetings or formal occasions - but they are still optional and up to your discretion.

The main point to recognize here is that your choice of pocket square should remain classy, serious, and conservative. You may be left feeling a little silly if you’re called into a meeting to discuss the financial trouble of the business if you’re wearing a cartoon rabbit pocket square.

The gentleman below is wearing a tastefully patterned pocket square to bring out the best of his pinstripe business suit.

Click Here To Explore Our Pocket Square Collection

Casual

When it comes to pocket squares and casual wear, within reason, anything goes.

A pocket square can be added to any casual suit, blazer, or sports coat look – just make sure that nothing clashes!

A perfect way to do this is to be careful with your colors and patterns:

Colors: Choose colors that complement each other. An easy way to do this is to choose one base colour and simply choose different shades throughout the outfit.

Patterns: ‘Busy’ pocket squares are easiest to pair with simple suit designs (such as solid color, plain suit fabrics, without features like pinstripes or plaid squares). You can still pull off a complicated pocket square with a detailed suit pattern, but the patterns between the two garments should not be too similar to each other.

For example, a pocket square with a small repeating pattern would likely not pair well with a suit with a small repeating houndstooth pattern. Instead, try a solid color pocket square, or a contrast your suit’s small pattern with a large repeating pattern.

Take a look below at how a red contrasting pocket square is making this casual double–breasted blazer come to life.

Click Here To Explore Our Pocket Square Collection

Pocket Square Materials: Cotton Vs Silk

When choosing a pocket square, the fabric is just as important as the color or fold. The two most common materials, cotton and silk, each offer distinct advantages. Use this table to decide which is right for your needs.

Feature	Cotton Pocket Squares	Silk Pocket Squares
Best For	Business, professional, and casual daily wear.	Formal events, weddings, and black-tie affairs.
Folding & Hold	Crisp and firm. Very easy to fold and holds sharp, structured shapes perfectly.	Soft and slippery. Best for relaxed, unstructured folds like the "Puff Fold."
Appearance	Matte, flat finish that provides a clean and understated look.	Smooth with a natural sheen that adds a touch of luxury and elegance.
Price Point	Very affordable, making it easy to build a versatile collection.	A premium, luxury item with a higher price tag.
Durability	Extremely durable and easy to care for (machine washable and simple to iron).	More delicate and typically requires more careful handling like dry cleaning.

 

Cotton

MAGENTA & NAVY CIRCLES POCKET SQUARE, 100% COTTON

Silk

NAVY & WHITE ITALIAN 100% SILK POCKET SQUARE

 

 

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between a pocket square and a handkerchief?

A pocket square is a decorative accessory designed to be visible from your jacket's breast pocket. It is made from fine materials like silk or linen. A handkerchief is a larger, more functional piece of cotton used for personal hygiene, and it should be kept in a trouser or bag pocket, out of sight.

Do I have to match my pocket square to my tie?

No, you shouldn't. An exact match looks dated and uninspired. Instead, the pocket square should complement a secondary color in your tie or shirt. For example, if your navy tie has small red dots, a solid red or burgundy pocket square would be an excellent choice.

Can you wear a pocket square without a tie?

Absolutely. Wearing a pocket square with a blazer or suit jacket but without a tie is a classic and stylish smart-casual look. It adds a pop of color and personality to the outfit without the formality of a tie.

What is the best pocket square fold for a wedding?

For formal weddings, the classic Square Fold (also called the Presidential Fold) is a sophisticated and failsafe choice, especially in white linen or silk. For a slightly more celebratory look, the Puff Fold is an excellent and versatile option that works well with patterned silk squares.

How much of the pocket square should be showing?

Generally, about a quarter-inch to a half-inch (around 1 cm) is ideal for structured folds like the Square Fold or Triangle Fold. For more voluminous folds like the Puff Fold, it's more about achieving a balanced, natural look rather than a specific height. The key is to ensure it doesn't bulge in the pocket or droop out of sight.

Pocket Square – Final Thoughts

Here are a few considerations:

• You don’t want to look like a magician about to pull something exceptionally large and bizarre from that breast pocket. The tucked–in pocket square should not create a bulge in the jacket front or flap at the top with every move.
• The pocket square is by no means reserved for formal wear only. It can easily give some charisma to a blazer and jeans outfit and looks great worn casually with a suit without a tie.
• Stay far away from pre–folded and pre–stitched pocket squares (as well as clip-on ties).
• Don’t go overboard with exact color matching. Ideally, the pocket square should harmonize with a color in your tie or shirt. Nowadays, mismatching is no longer frowned upon and, if you’re bold enough, you can wear just about any pocket square you wish. Just about.
• When in doubt, white cotton or linen is the safest bet for your pocket square fabric. You can never go wrong adding it to the suit and white shirt combo. Depending on the fold you choose, it can look either formal or casual.
• It should go without saying that your pocket square needs to be clean and ironed. Nonchalance is good, but messiness isn’t.
• If you are struggling with a fold, don’t try too hard. Your folded pocket square is not an origami paper crane. It helps to keep in mind the following wise words from the stylish Will Boehlke: "Pocket squares, like hats, must be worn with nonchalance. As if they were employed to wipe spilled champagne off a lady's dress mere moments ago".