Black Lapel Vs Oliver Wicks – Choosing Your Made-to-Measure Suit

If you’re here, you’ve likely seen both Black Lapel and Oliver Wicks... 

If you’re here, you’ve likely seen both Black Lapel and Oliver Wicks at the top of your search engine results. Without experience of either suit tailoring brand, working out which is fit for you may be challenging (but also exciting!). We’d agree that both brands have stellar reputations when it comes to tailoring suits that offer gentlemen the confidence that comes with high-quality, well-fitting garments.

While we (Oliver Wicks) and Black Lapel promise a great fit, with exceptional customisation opportunities, we believe that we approach the art of made-to-measure tailoring with different philosophies, core strengths and values.

We’re not here to declare a “winner”, the aim of this article is to offer a transparent and respectful comparison to help you make an informed decision to ultimately assist you in choosing a brand that fits your personal style, your requirements, and what it is that you truly seek from a suit (and other elements of formal menswear).

Discovering your perfect sartorial partner starts here, let’s explore what makes both brands unique.

Table of Contents

Two Brands – Two Philosophies

Behind every wonderful suit is a philosophy. The brand mindset, from sourcing fabric to design and production, shapes everything about the final product, along with the client experience before, during, and beyond engagement with the brand. Becoming familiar with the heritage ensures that the soul of the garments aligns with what matters to you.

Black Lapel: A Modern, Digital-First Approach

Black Lapel was founded on the idea of using technology to solve a timeless issue: helping men get decent suits, without the hassle or expense of bespoke tailoring. Their philosophy combines modern innovation, with accessibility to many by producing the garments in Asia.

Their online presence appeals to the lifestyle of people who want a suit with minimal fuss, which is backed by their promise of a “flawless fit”. This makes them appealing for someone who appreciates an American-style brand that applies technology to a globally sourced production model that’s built for consistency and scale.

Oliver Wicks: Rooted in European Craftsmanship

Our philosophy at Oliver Wicks is built on a deep respect for the traditions and values of European tailoring, blended with a modern application that caters for the demands of life in current times.

Our goal is to offer the convenience of an online service, with the classic sartorial values of the Old World. We believe that true quality is timeless and that the best suits MUST come from a mix of premium materials, attentive tailoring, and meticulous craftsmanship.

That’s why every Oliver Wicks suit is proudly made in Europe (Portugal, to be exact).

Our identity is built on the allure of European bespoke tailoring, in a package that appeals and is accessible to discerning gentlemen everywhere. Our production model is deliberately structured to ensure that each garment is treated as an individual commission.

Fabric Sourcing – Where Quality Begins

Black Lapel’s Fabric Selection

Black Lapel offers a broad and versatile selection of high-quality fabrics, designed to cater to a wide variety of tastes and budgets. Their collection features excellent wools and seasonal materials, including options from respected Italian mills, giving customers a strong foundation for building a custom wardrobe.

Oliver Wicks: An Exclusive Partnership with World-Class Mills

At Oliver Wicks, we believe that a truly exceptional suit requires a truly exceptional cloth, which is why we exclusively source our suit fabrics from mills in Italy and England.

Every fabric you choose from us comes with a world-class pedigree from legendary weavers like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Loro Piana, Drago, Reda, and more.

These names are not just labels; they are a global benchmark for quality. Our sourcing represents a spectrum of excellence—from legendary mills with centuries of heritage to modern innovators at the forefront of textile production.

For the gentleman who believes the foundation of a great suit is an exceptional cloth, this focus on sourcing is our promise of uncompromising quality.

The Anatomy of a Suit: Construction & Lasting Value

The difference between a suit that lasts six months and a long-term investment lies in its hidden construction. Many low-budget off-the-rack suits that you’ll find in malls are "fused," where a stiff interlining is glued to the fabric. This can feel rigid and is prone to "bubbling" over time (this is the internal glue deteriorating, causing the jacket fabric to detach from the lining). The superior method is "canvassing," where an internal layer is stitched (not glued) into the jacket. This acts like a skeleton, allowing the suit to drape naturally and move with you.

At Oliver Wicks, quality construction isn't an optional upgrade. Every suit we craft comes with a half-canvas construction as standard. This means a floating canvas is built into the chest and lapel, providing two key advantages. First, a superior drape that molds to your body over time for a truly personal fit. Second, unmatched longevity; your suit will withstand wear and won’t be prone to the bubbling associated with glue and fusing, ensuring your investment looks impeccable for years.

Today’s top-tier online tailors, including Black Lapel, rightly offer half-canvas options. For us, it is at the core of our production process—an unwavering standard that stems directly from our European tailoring heritage, where a suit is always viewed as an enduring investment.

For the ultimate in sartorial construction, a full-canvas suit offers unparalleled drape and a highly structured feel (typical in British suit styling). Both Oliver Wicks and Black Lapel provide the option to elevate your suit to this gold standard.

At Oliver Wicks, we believe this pinnacle of craftsmanship shouldn't be prohibitively exclusive. We are committed to making this superior construction a surprisingly accessible step up for our customers, reflecting our core mission of delivering exceptional, tangible value.

When you choose Oliver Wicks, you are choosing a guarantee of lasting value and integrity, built into the very anatomy of your garment from day one.

Style and Customization: Personalizing Your Sartorial Vision

The true joy of made-to-measure is the ability to personalize every detail to reflect your unique taste. Both Oliver Wicks and Black Lapel offer a highly robust platform for customization, allowing you to move far beyond the limitations of off-the-rack styling.

Black Lapel: A Comprehensive Customization Suite

Black Lapel offers a wide and comprehensive range of style choices, appealing to the gentleman who seeks a digitally-focused, versatile approach to personalizing his garments.

  • Customization Range: Full control over lapel width, pocket configuration (e.g., flap, patch, jetted), jacket vents (side, center, none), lining choices, and button selections.
  • Construction Upgrade: Upgrade to a full-canvas construction is available, typically at an approximate additional cost of $200.

Oliver Wicks: Superior Custom Detailing and Accessible Value

Our customization philosophy is rooted in the precision of European tailoring, blending traditional quality with the flexibility modern clients demand. We ensure that superior details are either standard or available at an exceptional value.

  • Customization Range: Full control over every sartorial detail, including lapel width, functional button cuffs (surgeon's cuffs) as a standard or accessible feature, ticket pockets, detailed lining choices, and a complete range of internal and external pocket configurations.
  • Construction Upgrade (Key Value): Upgrade to the highest-tier full-canvas construction is available for a remarkably accessible $110, reflecting our commitment to making superior craftsmanship the standard.
  • Personal Touch: Custom monogramming is available.

Longevity and Aftercare: The Mark of a Long-Term Investment

A suit of quality is not a fleeting purchase; it is a long-term investment. While standard garment warranties typically cover only defects in materials or craftsmanship, the true measure of durability lies in the garment's anatomy—specifically, its construction and cloth quality.

Black Lapel: Durability Through Quality Materials

Black Lapel ensures durability by utilizing high-quality wools and well-recognised tailoring techniques. Longevity is inherent in the materials selected and the canvassing options offered.

  • Construction: Half-canvas construction is available, which significantly improves drape and longevity over fused alternatives.
  • Materials: Wools and materials that are built to withstand years of regular professional wear.
  • Aftercare: Standard industry practice applies; the initial fit guarantee is the primary focus.
  • Tailored In Asia: Known for mass production, suit tailoring in Asia offers experience with high volumes of production at low cost.

Oliver Wicks: Enduring Value Through Standardized European Craftsmanship

Our philosophy ensures that long-term durability is guaranteed from the very first price point, making an Oliver Wicks suit a truly enduring investment in your wardrobe.

  • Construction (Key Value): Every Oliver Wicks suit is built with half-canvas construction as a non-negotiable standard. This ensures the jacket molds to your body and avoids the "bubbling" associated with fused suits, guaranteeing durability.
  • Materials: Our exclusive sourcing from top-tier Italian and English mills means the cloth itself is woven for enduring quality and resilience.
  • Aftercare: We focus on getting the fit right the first time and ensuring the quality lasts, reducing the need for extensive aftercare beyond a professional dry cleaning schedule.
  • European Tailoring: Our garments are tailored in Europe with state-of-the-art equipment that is maintained and calibrated regularly for consistently reliable construction.
  • Read Our Guide: Check out an article that we wrote specifically on how to look after your suits.

Pricing Transparency – Defining Your Investment

For the discerning gentleman, a suit is an investment, and understanding the financial outlay is as crucial as understanding the construction. While it is impossible to give a fixed price due to the custom nature of made-to-measure, we can provide a clear and transparent breakdown of the typical investment for an Oliver Wicks suit versus a Black Lapel suit.

The difference in price points often reflects the brand's core philosophy—specifically, the origin of the cloth and the standard construction features.

The table below is a guide to 2-piece suits from both brands side-by-side:

Suit Type Black Lapel Oliver Wicks Oliver Wicks Key Value Proposition
Entry-Level MTM From $499 From $799 Oliver Wicks' entry-level includes half-canvas construction as standard, as well as wools sourced exclusively from prestigious Italian and English mills to ensure the highest quality, from the lowest price point.
Mid-Tier From $899 From $849 Everything from entry-level, but now Oliver Wicks introduces especially luxurious features, such as top-tier Super S wool ratings.
High-End From $1499 From $999 Value-Driven High-End. The difference in price at Oliver Wicks is a reflection of our core belief that superior quality must be a standard, not a premium-priced option. This investment secures an exceptional cloth at a uniquely accessible price point, even at our premium range.

 

Ultimately, the investment with either brand reflects their core philosophy. Your decision should centre on the level of quality assurance across the tiers. With Oliver Wicks, your money secures a foundation of guaranteed half-canvas construction and European cloth from the start, ensuring a more uniform and sophisticated quality-to-price ratio throughout the entire collection.

The Measurement Process: Simple, Guided, and Accurate

Our process makes submitting your measurements straightforward and accurate, all in around 15 minutes. Upon creating a free profile, you’ll be prompted to provide your measurements by following our video guides – Each measurement is isolated with a short video, so you’ll know exactly what to do, without any confusion or unnecessary complexity.

There's no guesswork and no confusing diagrams—just straightforward, step-by-step guidance.

You don’t need any special tools, just a regular tape measure, and everything is done from the comfort of your home.

The Oliver Wicks Difference: Human Review

Your measurements don’t just simply go into an algorithm, instead, a professional tailor is personally assigned to your order. This is where your personal experience truly begins.

Your tailor will conduct a thorough, expert review of your measurements, using their trained eye in conjunction with our pattern data archive to spot any potential inconsistencies. If anything seems a little off, we will contact you directly to double-check. This human touch is a critical step that prevents problems before they start.

Customer Support & The Client Experience: Digital Access, Human Touch

Beyond the physical product, the quality of service defines the made-to-measure experience. Both brands offer highly supportive digital platforms, but they employ fundamentally different service models—one prioritizing physical showrooms, the other prioritizing expert-led digital quality assurance.

Black Lapel: Extensive Digital Support and Showroom Accessibility

Black Lapel is built around a comprehensive and responsive digital model, supplemented by a physical presence for those who prefer an in-person consultation.

  • In-Person Option: Showrooms are available in key locations (e.g., New York City) for clients who prefer in-person measurements and consultation.
  • Digital Support: Responsive customer service via Live Chat and email for quick answers and style guidance.
  • Style Consulting: Access to style experts and consultants who can guide fabric and fit choices.

Oliver Wicks: The Personal Tailor Review – A Value-Driven Model

Our service is structured on the principle that the highest quality should be accessible and fully risk-mitigated without the significant overhead of physical retail locations. We invest in a personalized, expert review process instead of expensive real estate.

  • The Personal Tailor USP: Every order is assigned to a dedicated professional tailor who personally reviews and verifies all measurements against our pattern data archive.
  • Proactive Quality Control: If a discrepancy is found, the tailor contacts you directly to double-check, preventing errors before the suit is cut.
  • A Value-Added Choice: By specializing in a streamlined, online-only service, we ensure that the costs saved on retail overhead are invested back into superior customer terms (e.g., the unified $125 alteration credit valid for 365 days and the remarkably accessible full-canvas upgrade).

Turnaround Time and Shipping: A Question of Logistics

When commissioning a made-to-measure suit, managing expectations around delivery is key. It is important to remember that quality, custom craftsmanship requires a considered timeframe; this is not an off-the-rack purchase. Fortunately, both Oliver Wicks and Black Lapel offer comparable, transparent logistics, demonstrating the operational professionalism of both brands.

Here is a direct comparison of the key logistical factors:

Factor Black Lapel Oliver Wicks Note on Service
Standard Turnaround Time 4–5 weeks Approx. 35 Days Both brands commit to the time necessary for quality custom tailoring.
Standard Shipping Cost Free International Shipping Free International Shipping Complimentary shipping for standard orders, regardless of global location.
Duties & Taxes Delivery Duty Paid (DDP) Delivery Duty Paid (DDP) Both ensure a seamless, no-hidden-fee experience by covering duties upfront.

The remarkable similarity in these logistics confirms that both Oliver Wicks and Black Lapel have optimised their supply chains to deliver a premium experience globally. The core takeaway is that with either choice, you are guaranteed a professional, timely service with the full confidence of transparent international shipping.

Satisfaction Guarantee: Our Commitment to a Great Fit

The biggest question for any gentleman ordering a suit online is simple yet crucial: "What if it doesn't fit?" We understand this natural concern, which is why the entire made-to-measure process, for both Oliver Wicks and Black Lapel, is designed to build your confidence from the very first step.

The standard for top-tier online tailors is a comprehensive guarantee, and here is what each brand has to offer:

Black Lapel's Guarantee & Alterations Process

  • Alterations Credit: Black Lapel offers a split credit: $75 for the jacket and $50 for the pants, for a total of $125 towards local tailoring.
  • Alteration Request Window: Requests for alterations must be submitted within 60 days of receiving your suit.
  • Order Cancellation Policy: Cancelling an unproduced order incurs a cancellation fee equal to the price of the fabric.

The Oliver Wicks 100% Satisfaction Guarantee

Our commitment is built on a superior credit, a longer timeframe, and complete order flexibility:

  • Local Alterations Credit: Every two-piece suit order is covered by a generous, unified $125 worth of alterations credit, valid for up to an industry-leading 365 days from delivery. This extended period ensures you have ample time to arrange local tailoring and submit your receipt.
  • Risk-Free First-Time Customer Offer: To eliminate risk on your initial investment, we offer an unconditional free remake if the fit is not right, or a full refund if you are not satisfied, within 30 days.
  • Flexible Cancellation Policy: For ultimate peace of mind, you can modify or cancel an unproduced order within 90 days of purchase without incurring any charges.
  • Remake/Return Logistics: Oliver Wicks offers free return shipping for remakes or returns, ensuring a completely risk-free experience on first-time orders.

A Partnership Built on Confidence

A strong fit guarantee has become the standard for top-tier online tailors like ourselves, and Black Lapel—and rightly so. It’s the commitment a customer should expect when investing in a made-to-measure garment.

At Oliver Wicks, we see this guarantee not just as a safety net, but as a reflection of the confidence we have in our entire process—from our detailed measurement guides to the renowned skill of our European tailors. It’s a partnership built on a promise: we will work with you until you have a suit you love to wear.

Explore the full details of our fit guarantee to see exactly how we stand behind every suit we create.

The Final Stitch: Understanding The Value

A made-to-measure suit is more than a purchase; it's an investment in your confidence, and very likely your professional image too. Navigating between two top-tier brands like Oliver Wicks and Black Lapel comes down to more than just fabric and fit; it's about discovering which approach to the tailor's art truly resonates with your own.

Our Commitment to Great Value

The Oliver Wicks approach to value is straightforward: we believe the features that define a great suit—from its true canvas construction to details like functional surgeon's cuffs—shouldn't be optional add-ons, but the fundamental building blocks of any garment worth owning. This isn't an up-charge; it's simply our standard. It's how we ensure your suit is built on a superior foundation of European craftsmanship, and that the price you see reflects a garment built with integrity from the inside out.

This philosophy of inherent value extends beyond the garment itself. It’s matched by our commitment to an exceptional client experience, from navigating our user-friendly site, to working one-to-one with your personally assigned tailor. It’s how we create an exceptional all-round partnership, one that’s backed by our comprehensive fit guarantee for your complete peace of mind.

Choosing Oliver Wicks means you are choosing a partner in craftsmanship. You are investing not just in a garment that fits your body, but in a piece of enduring quality that reflects a deep respect for the tailor's art.

Who Is Each Brand For? A Guide to Your Decision

The best tailor for you is the one whose identity and priorities resonate with yours.

You Might Be a Great Fit for Black Lapel if…

Black Lapel has built a stellar reputation for a reason. They cater perfectly to the modern, fast-paced gent who values a sleek, tech-forward digital experience. If you appreciate a data-driven process, a globally sourced production model built for consistency and scale, and a sharp, American-style brand identity, Black Lapel is an outstanding choice.

You’ll Feel at Home with Oliver Wicks if…

Oliver Wicks is crafted for the gentleman who believes the soul of a suit lies in its fabric and construction. If you value the heritage of European tailoring, believe an exceptional cloth is non-negotiable, and appreciate a personal, human touch in the measurement and review process, then our philosophy will resonate with you.

Ultimately, the perfect suit is the one that feels right to you. We hope this transparent comparison has provided the clarity you need to make a confident decision, and we invite you to explore our collection to begin your sartorial journey with us.

OLIVER WICKS
THE FIT THAT SUITS YOU